Kona Hawaii City of Refuge

Sunset over Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park (City of Refuge), Kona Coast, Hawaii
Sunset over Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park, Kona Coast, Hawaii

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park (known as the The City of Refuge) is one of my favorite destinations on the Big Island of Hawaii. This tranquil park is tucked away on the Kona coast not far from Kealakekua Bay – the spot where Captain James Cook first visited the Islands in 1778 and soon after met his fate.

In ancient Hawaii this sacred location was both a favorite residence of the high chiefs, and a safe haven for defeated warriors and those who had broken the kapu (ancient laws). Several thatched buildings including a heiau (or temple) and interpretive displays provide a glimpse of what life was like here centuries ago.

Today this quiet palm lined beach and lagoon are perfect for snorkeling or photography, and contemplating the rich island history this park preserves. It is also a sanctuary for the endangered green sea turtles that feed in the shallow cove and frequent the sandy beach to lay their eggs and rest.

Whether you come for the view or to experience a bit of natural history and island culture, this magical spot is well worth a side trip when exploring the Big Island of Hawaii.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

Worlds Away on Hawaii’s Big Island

Umauma Falls along the lush Hamakua Coast, Hawaii
Umauma Falls along the lush Hamakua Coast, Hawaii

The Big Island of Hawaii is well-known for its active volcano, black sand beaches, and magical Kona sunsets, and that’s more than enough reason to visit this island paradise. But what many may not realize is that the eastern side of the island is a lush tropical landscape of cascading waterfalls and jungle-lined valleys in a primordial setting.

Traveling north from Hilo on the old Mamalahoa Highway is a journey back in time. Passing countless sugar cane fields, the primary industry here during the last century, the landscape soon enters the dense jungle as the road winds along the rugged Hamakua Coast. With constant views of the Pacific on the right, the highway passes countless verdant chasms lined with an amazing variety of plants and trees that fill every available space with green. Needless to say, you soon find yourself looking for every available pull-out.

Akaka Falls State Park is one of the highlights of the coast. A short nature trail leads through giant bamboo forests and tropical cascades before arriving at its namesake waterfall. Further north, just before the highway turns west towards the town of Waimea, a spur road leads through the sleepy hamlet of Honoka’a to the spectacular Waipio Valley.  The overlook at the end of the main road provides stunning views of this valley of the kings and the dramatic cliffs of the north coast, but traveling into the valley down the 25% grade (reported to be the steepest in the US) requires several hours and a guide or 4-wheel drive vehicle.

Boasting 4 out of the 5 major climate zones in the world, and 8 out of 13 of the sub-zones, the Big Isle really does have it all! Unlike the other Islands, which require less travel time, it takes a bit of planning to fully experience the largest of the Hawaiian Islands – but this is one part you don’t want to miss.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

Kauai’s Secret Beach

Surf crashing on rocks at Secret Beach, Kauai, Hawaii
Surf crashing on rocks at Secret Beach, Kauai, Hawaii

If you’re in search of warmer latitudes and a sense of adventure the north shore of Kauai is a great place to get away from it all. From the rugged Na Pali Coast at road’s end in Ha’ena, the famed Kalalau Trail traverses the cliffs and valleys of this spectacular landscape for a truly unforgettable hiking experience.

For maximum time on the water, kayaking the 16 mile coastline is a truly unique way to see this remote part of the island that doesn’t require an overnight. Several tour companies in Hanalei provide all the equipment and an informative guide along with pickup service at the end of the journey.

But perhaps this all sounds a bit too adventurous after your escape from the mainland, and all you really want is a quite little piece of paradise to call your own. In that case, you can’t do much better than Kauapea Beach (known by the locals as Secret Beach). This pristine strip of golden sand is a short detour off the Kuhio Highway, but is rarely crowded and offers wonderful views of the Kilauea Lighthouse above the turquoise waters of the Pacific.

Whether you need to wind down with your toes in the sand after a day of hiking or paddling, or prefer to spend all your time a la Robinson Crusoe just off the grid and unplugged – this secluded hideaway is a mandatory stop on your North Shore adventure.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved