Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings

Hawaii's Valley of the Kings. Waipio Valley, Hamakua Coast, The Big Island, Hawaii
Waipi’o Valley, Hamakua Coast, The Big Island, Hawaii

Tucked away on the remote Hamakua Coast of The Big Island, Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings preserves the essence of ancient Hawaii. From its black sand beach, dramatic cliffs, and waterfalls to the scattering of taro farms that have worked this land for generations, this idyllic valley is a wonderful place to explore and photograph.

The overlook at the end of Highway 240 provides sweeping views of the valley below, but the adventurous traveler will want to experience this verdant valley up close. The excitement starts as you leave the overlook and descend the 25% grade, taxing both engines and muscles alike. This paved public road, which is only open to 4-wheel drive vehicles and foot traffic, is the steepest road of its length in the United States and possibly the world.

Waipiʻo means “curved water” in the Hawaiian language and aptly describes the lazy river that greets you at the bottom. Wild horses can often be seen wandering along its banks, and this is a good spot to bring a kayak and explore upstream. Heading towards the Pacific the road ends at the beach and a primitive picnic area, but you can cross the river when the water is low and experience your own piece of paradise a la Robinson Crusoe. The black sand beach to the west is usually deserted and the occasional washed up fishing float or Hawaiian offering amid the coconut palms provide a truly remote feeling.

It’s easy to see why this was a favorite spot of the ancient Hawaiian royalty, and you might remember it as the final scene in Kevin Costner’s sci-fi epic Waterworld. When it’s time to leave, your only regret is that first glimpse of the road back to reality.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

Kauai’s Kalalau Trail

Kauai's Kalalau Trail. Lush vegetation along the Kalalau Trail, Na Pali Coast, Kauai, Hawaii 
Lush vegetation along the Kalalau Trail, Napali Coast Wilderness State Park, Kauai, Hawaii

The Kalalau Trail along Kauai’s verdant north shore is arguably one of the finest hikes in the world. Originally built in the late 1800’s to link early Hawaiian settlements along the rugged coastline, it is still the only land access to this remote part of the Island.

The trail, which starts at the end of the road at Ke’e Beach, hugs the sheer cliffs along Napali Coast Wilderness State Park and traverses 5 valleys before ending at Kalalau Beach where the pali (Hawaiian for cliffs) create a natural terminus.

Along this mystical journey you pass verdant spires, wander through lush valleys, and are left with the feeling that you’ve truly entered the Lost World (not surprising since both King Kong and Jurassic Park were filmed here).

Whether you cover the entire 11 mile distance and camp at Kalalau Beach or take an afternoon hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach to sample the dense jungle and golden afternoon light, this is the quintessential Na Pali Coast experience.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

Kona Hawaii City of Refuge

Sunset over Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park (City of Refuge), Kona Coast, Hawaii
Sunset over Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park, Kona Coast, Hawaii

Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park (known as the The City of Refuge) is one of my favorite destinations on the Big Island of Hawaii. This tranquil park is tucked away on the Kona coast not far from Kealakekua Bay – the spot where Captain James Cook first visited the Islands in 1778 and soon after met his fate.

In ancient Hawaii this sacred location was both a favorite residence of the high chiefs, and a safe haven for defeated warriors and those who had broken the kapu (ancient laws). Several thatched buildings including a heiau (or temple) and interpretive displays provide a glimpse of what life was like here centuries ago.

Today this quiet palm lined beach and lagoon are perfect for snorkeling or photography, and contemplating the rich island history this park preserves. It is also a sanctuary for the endangered green sea turtles that feed in the shallow cove and frequent the sandy beach to lay their eggs and rest.

Whether you come for the view or to experience a bit of natural history and island culture, this magical spot is well worth a side trip when exploring the Big Island of Hawaii.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved