The Big Island | Russ Bishop Photography

July 6, 2022July 6, 2022

Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings

Tucked away on the remote Hamakua Coast of The Big Island, Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings preserves the essence of ancient Hawaii. From its black sand beach, dramatic cliffs, and waterfalls to the scattering of taro farms that have worked this land for generations, this idyllic valley is a wonderful place to explore and photograph.

The overlook at the end of Highway 240 provides sweeping views of the valley below, but the adventurous traveler will want to experience this verdant valley up close. The excitement starts as you leave the overlook and descend the 25% grade, taxing both engines and muscles alike. This paved public road, which is only open to 4-wheel drive vehicles and foot traffic, is the steepest road of its length in the United States and possibly the world.

Waipiʻo means “curved water” in the Hawaiian language and aptly describes the lazy river that greets you at the bottom. Wild horses can often be seen wandering along its banks, and this is a good spot to bring a kayak and explore upstream. Heading towards the Pacific the road ends at the beach and a primitive picnic area, but you can cross the river when the water is low and experience your own piece of paradise a la Robinson Crusoe. The black sand beach to the west is usually deserted and the occasional washed up fishing float or Hawaiian offering amid the coconut palms provide a truly remote feeling.

It’s easy to see why this was a favorite spot of the ancient Hawaiian royalty, and you might remember it as the final scene in Kevin Costner’s sci-fi epic Waterworld. When it’s time to leave, your only regret is that first glimpse of the road back to reality.

March 26, 2021March 26, 2021

Worlds Away on Hawaii’s Big Island

Umauma Falls along the lush Hamakua Coast, Hawaii

The Big Island of Hawaii is well-known for its active volcano, black sand beaches, and magical Kona sunsets, and that’s more than enough reason to visit this island paradise. But what many may not realize is that the eastern side of the island is a lush tropical landscape of cascading waterfalls and jungle-lined valleys in a primordial setting.

Traveling north from Hilo on the old Mamalahoa Highway is a journey back in time. Passing countless sugar cane fields, the primary industry here during the last century, the landscape soon enters the dense jungle as the road winds along the rugged Hamakua Coast. With constant views of the Pacific on the right, the highway passes countless verdant chasms lined with an amazing variety of plants and trees that fill every available space with green. Needless to say, you soon find yourself looking for every available pull-out.

Akaka Falls State Park is one of the highlights of the coast. A short nature trail leads through giant bamboo forests and tropical cascades before arriving at its namesake waterfall. Further north, just before the highway turns west towards the town of Waimea, a spur road leads through the sleepy hamlet of Honoka’a to the spectacular Waipio Valley. The overlook at the end of the main road provides stunning views of this valley of the kings and the dramatic cliffs of the north coast, but traveling into the valley down the 25% grade (reported to be the steepest in the US) requires several hours and a guide or 4-wheel drive vehicle.

Boasting 4 out of the 5 major climate zones in the world, and 8 out of 13 of the sub-zones, the Big Isle really does have it all! Unlike the other Islands, which require less travel time, it takes a bit of planning to fully experience the largest of the Hawaiian Islands – but this is one part you don’t want to miss.

September 1, 2010February 3, 2012

Hawaiian Cowboys

Hawaiian cowboys? – it sounds like a contradiction, but then Hawaii is full of them. In addition to its active volcano, pristine beaches, and the world’s largest observatories on Mauna Kea, the Big Island of Hawaii is also home to one the largest and oldest ranches in the United States.

After the war of 1812 John Parker settled in the Islands and became friends with King Kamehameha I. He married the daughter of a high-ranking chief and was given two acres of land and allowed to manage the free-roaming cattle on the island. Over the next 160 years the ranch grew to thousands of acres around the town of Waimea and until 1992, it was the largest privately owned cattle ranch in the United States (including Texas and Montana!).

The paniolos (or Hawaiian cowboys) who work the ranch are descendants of Mexican vaqueros, excellent horsemen brought over by Parker to manage the growing operation. They trained local men to rope and ride a generation before the American cowboys of the Wild West learned their craft, and introduced to the local culture the sound that today is synonymous with Hawaii, the ukulele.