Fall aspens under Sierra peaks from South Lake, John Muir Wilderness, California
It’s the first of September – the days are getting shorter, and there is a crispness in the air that definitely signals the close of summer. This is my favorite time of year when the crowds give way to the colors of fall, and the natural world seems to come alive once again with a riot of color.
It’s always hard to predict just when and where the peak of autumn color will occur, and sudden temperature changes play a large part in the timing from year to year. As a general rule the higher elevations in the western mountains tend to peak late September to early October, the eastern hardwoods around mid-October, while desert canyons such as Zion and Capitol Reef typically show their full colors in early November.
If the last two big winters are any indication of what’s to come it’s possible the season may be cut short as early snows cause the leaves to turn brown or drop prematurely. But if your timing is right, you can have the best of both worlds with one season visually ushering in the next.
Backcountry skier under Piute Pass, John Muir Wilderness, California
Backcountry skiing opens up a whole new world of travel, sport and photographic possibilities. Locations in my local Sierra Nevada Mountains, which are crowded and require permits long in advance during the rest of the year, are quiet and often untouched during the winter months.
Temperatures can drop to -20 degrees Fahrenheit so proper equipment is a must (think REI and Patagonia), but the reward is experiencing your own private ski bowls and perfect mountain landscapes just waiting to be photographed.
This image was made in the John Muir Wilderness where a fresh blanket of snow provided a pristine scene to rival the Alps or Canadian Rockies. It’s hard to imagine that just two months earlier this location was bustling with visitors chasing the fall colors, but on this three day trip we didn’t see another soul.
For those looking to experience the Sierra in the winter months, but who aren’t prepared with overnight gear, several businesses in the towns of Bishop and Mammoth Lakes offer day trips and overnight hut arrangements. Either way, there’s a beautiful untouched world out there just waiting to be explored.
Lone Pine Peak through Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills, Inyo National Forest, California
The eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains in California is an area rich in superlatives. From the lofty summit of Mount Whitney (the highest point in the contiguous United States) to the ancient Bristlecone pines (the oldest living trees on earth), the Owens Valley, nestled between the Sierra and the White Mountains, is itself the deepest chasm in North America.
So it’s no surprise that driving up Highway 395, through quaint high desert towns in the shadow of some of the continent’s most imposing peaks, is a visual feast. This is a land of extremes, not only in elevation and longevity, but climate zones and geology. And with so much variety, anyone traveling this route needs to think carefully about their itinerary as there is far too much to explore and experience in a weekend escape.
One exceptional spot that should not be missed is the Alabama Hills Recreation Area just west of Lone Pine. This is a wild landscape of graceful arches and giant boulders strewn across the desert floor. In stark contrast to the snow-capped peaks above, this area has been a favorite of advertising agencies and Hollywood studios going back to the silent movie days, and it’s easy to see why. The warm dawn light here has a special quality that seems to illuminate the rocks from within, and beautifully accentuates the transition from the desert to the alpine environments.
Over the years, the Alabama Hills have grown in popularity both as a photographer’s paradise and a traveler’s escape where camping is free and easy in a gorgeous setting. Unfortunately because the area is under BLM (Bureau of Land Management) jurisdiction and lacks the protection afforded other similarly dramatic sites, it has seen its share of vandalism. Many have advocated for its wilderness designation over the years, but in a strange twist of fate it seems its fame and accessibility are likely to prevent any further protection.
So enjoy this treasure, its beauty and the unique sense of freedom it provides, but be sure to take only pictures and leave only footprints. And if you do happen to discover a new arch, give it a name and keep it to yourself so that the next person who visits can savor the same wilderness experience.
