Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings

Hawaii's Valley of the Kings. Waipio Valley, Hamakua Coast, The Big Island, Hawaii
Waipi’o Valley, Hamakua Coast, The Big Island, Hawaii

Tucked away on the remote Hamakua Coast of The Big Island, Hawaii’s Valley of the Kings preserves the essence of ancient Hawaii. From its black sand beach, dramatic cliffs, and waterfalls to the scattering of taro farms that have worked this land for generations, this idyllic valley is a wonderful place to explore and photograph.

The overlook at the end of Highway 240 provides sweeping views of the valley below, but the adventurous traveler will want to experience this verdant valley up close. The excitement starts as you leave the overlook and descend the 25% grade, taxing both engines and muscles alike. This paved public road, which is only open to 4-wheel drive vehicles and foot traffic, is the steepest road of its length in the United States and possibly the world.

Waipiʻo means “curved water” in the Hawaiian language and aptly describes the lazy river that greets you at the bottom. Wild horses can often be seen wandering along its banks, and this is a good spot to bring a kayak and explore upstream. Heading towards the Pacific the road ends at the beach and a primitive picnic area, but you can cross the river when the water is low and experience your own piece of paradise a la Robinson Crusoe. The black sand beach to the west is usually deserted and the occasional washed up fishing float or Hawaiian offering amid the coconut palms provide a truly remote feeling.

It’s easy to see why this was a favorite spot of the ancient Hawaiian royalty, and you might remember it as the final scene in Kevin Costner’s sci-fi epic Waterworld. When it’s time to leave, your only regret is that first glimpse of the road back to reality.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

The Fire Within

The Fire Within - Lava flow entering the ocean at dawn, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park,, Hawaii
Lava flow entering the ocean at dawn, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii

The Fire Within. For more than a quarter century Madame Pele the goddess of fire has let her temperament be known on the Big Island of Hawaii. Often without warning she has re-awakened many times during a forty-year period sending a river of lava flowing into the sea and creating one of the most active volcanoes on earth.

This image made in the pre-dawn hours in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park shows the raw force of fire and water combining to form new land. It is an incredible spectacle to witness and one of the most challenging subjects I have ever photographed.

For many years walking across miles of a’a lava fields (the sharp brittle variety) in the dark and carefully setting up a tripod on a newly formed shelf above the sea was the only option. But when the lava began flowing into the sea an off-shore view provided a new perspective to this ever-changing landscape.

In stark contrast to shooting the lush forests and beautiful beaches on the windward side of this same island, this is a land of raw earth and fire – and beauty of a different kind. The experience is intoxicating, and once you’ve caught your first glimpse of Pele’s glow the desire to return again and again is hard to resist.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved

Kauai’s Kalalau Trail

Kauai's Kalalau Trail. Lush vegetation along the Kalalau Trail, Na Pali Coast, Kauai, Hawaii 
Lush vegetation along the Kalalau Trail, Napali Coast Wilderness State Park, Kauai, Hawaii

The Kalalau Trail along Kauai’s verdant north shore is arguably one of the finest hikes in the world. Originally built in the late 1800’s to link early Hawaiian settlements along the rugged coastline, it is still the only land access to this remote part of the Island.

The trail, which starts at the end of the road at Ke’e Beach, hugs the sheer cliffs along Napali Coast Wilderness State Park and traverses 5 valleys before ending at Kalalau Beach where the pali (Hawaiian for cliffs) create a natural terminus.

Along this mystical journey you pass verdant spires, wander through lush valleys, and are left with the feeling that you’ve truly entered the Lost World (not surprising since both King Kong and Jurassic Park were filmed here).

Whether you cover the entire 11 mile distance and camp at Kalalau Beach or take an afternoon hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach to sample the dense jungle and golden afternoon light, this is the quintessential Na Pali Coast experience.

 

©Russ Bishop/All Rights Reserved