Alabama Hills | Russ Bishop Photography

Lone Pine Peak through Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills, Inyo National Forest, California

The eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains in California is an area rich in superlatives. From the lofty summit of Mount Whitney (the highest point in the contiguous United States) to the ancient Bristlecone pines (the oldest living trees on earth), the Owens Valley, nestled between the Sierra and the White Mountains, is itself the deepest chasm in North America.

So it’s no surprise that driving up Highway 395, through quaint high desert towns in the shadow of some of the continent’s most imposing peaks, is a visual feast. This is a land of extremes, not only in elevation and longevity, but climate zones and geology. And with so much variety, anyone traveling this route needs to think carefully about their itinerary as there is far too much to explore and experience in a weekend escape.

One exceptional spot that should not be missed is the Alabama Hills Recreation Area just west of Lone Pine. This is a wild landscape of graceful arches and giant boulders strewn across the desert floor. In stark contrast to the snow-capped peaks above, this area has been a favorite of advertising agencies and Hollywood studios going back to the silent movie days, and it’s easy to see why. The warm dawn light here has a special quality that seems to illuminate the rocks from within, and beautifully accentuates the transition from the desert to the alpine environments.

Over the years, the Alabama Hills have grown in popularity both as a photographer’s paradise and a traveler’s escape where camping is free and easy in a gorgeous setting. Unfortunately because the area is under BLM (Bureau of Land Management) jurisdiction and lacks the protection afforded other similarly dramatic sites, it has seen its share of vandalism. Many have advocated for its wilderness designation over the years, but in a strange twist of fate it seems its fame and accessibility are likely to prevent any further protection.

So enjoy this treasure, its beauty and the unique sense of freedom it provides, but be sure to take only pictures and leave only footprints. And if you do happen to discover a new arch, give it a name and keep it to yourself so that the next person who visits can savor the same wilderness experience.

Cypress Tree at sunset, Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel, California

It’s unfortunate that this week our government here in the US has closed its doors, especially for those who had travel plans to visit our wonderful national parks. But all is not lost as there are many beautiful locations in state parks, wilderness, and BLM (Bureau of Land Management) areas around the country that are open and often free of charge.

In California, a few of the standouts include Anza-Borrego Desert State Park (the largest in California and second largest in the country). Northeast of San Diego, this sprawling wilderness park offers endless hiking and photographic potential in a remote setting of cactus covered hillsides and palm oasis. With Borrego Springs as your base, you can enjoy day hikes from numerous lodging options in town, or wilderness camp for free under a star-filled sky and not see a soul for days.

Point Lobos State Reserve near Monterey, Garrapata and Limekiln State Parks (all on the Big Sur Coast), provide some of the best views on the California coast. Limekiln includes coastal access and camping and trails through a primeval forest of old growth redwoods and crystal clear streams. Garrapata is a rugged, undeveloped park adjacent to Highway 1 offering quiet coves, sea arches, and stunning views of the Pacific.

Further north, Point Lobos State Reserve, which was a local haunt of Ansel Adams and Edward Weston, is part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. It’s wind-swept shores of rare Monterey cypress are a diver’s paradise and a great place to watch migrating whales and sea otters – and the sunsets can be truly spectacular. Other excellent spots in the area include Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, and Sand Dollar Beach in the Los Padres National Forest. On the east side of the state along Highway 395 in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the Alabama Hills under Mount Whitney are a vast moon-scape of giant boulders and arches made famous in early Hollywood movies and a wonderful photographic destination.

So while the politicians in Washington try to see eye to eye, those who had planned to visit America’s best idea don’t have to feel short-changed. There’s still plenty of natural beauty waiting to be explored outside the confines of the National Park System.

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