A Land of Extremes

Lone Pine Peak through Mobius Arch, Alabama Hills, Inyo National Forest, California

The eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains in California is an area rich in superlatives. From the lofty summit of Mount Whitney (the highest point in the contiguous United States) to the ancient Bristlecone pines (the oldest living trees on earth), the Owens Valley, nestled between the Sierra and the White Mountains, is itself the deepest chasm in North America.

So it’s no surprise that driving up Highway 395, through quaint high desert towns in the shadow of some of the continent’s most imposing peaks, is a visual feast. This is a land of extremes, not only in elevation and longevity, but climate zones and geology. And with so much variety, anyone traveling this route needs to think carefully about their itinerary as there is far too much to explore and experience in a weekend escape.

One exceptional spot that should not be missed is the Alabama Hills Recreation Area just west of Lone Pine. This is a wild landscape of graceful arches and giant boulders strewn across the desert floor. In stark contrast to the snow-capped peaks above, this area has been a favorite of advertising agencies and Hollywood studios going back to the silent movie days, and it’s easy to see why. The warm dawn light here has a special quality that seems to illuminate the rocks from within, and beautifully accentuates the transition from the desert to the alpine environments.

Over the years, the Alabama Hills have grown in popularity both as a photographer’s paradise and a traveler’s escape where camping is free and easy in a gorgeous setting. Unfortunately because the area is under BLM (Bureau of Land Management) jurisdiction and lacks the protection afforded other similarly dramatic sites, it has seen its share of vandalism. Many have advocated for its wilderness designation over the years, but in a strange twist of fate it seems its fame and accessibility are likely to prevent any further protection.

So enjoy this treasure, its beauty and the unique sense of freedom it provides, but be sure to take only pictures and leave only footprints. And if you do happen to discover a new arch, give it a name and keep it to yourself so that the next person who visits can savor the same wilderness experience.